Wattie met us at the Routeburn Carpark and for $10 transported us to the start of the Greenstone – Caples tracks, - quite some distance.

We started off on a well-formed track, upgraded earlier in the year when the whole area was returned to the Maori, and many, including elderly, made a pilgrimage.

We passed the bridge to the Greenstone that we would cross several days later, then over open river flats with glorious views and patches of beech forest. Just before the hut the track crosses the river by a bridge high above a spectacular gorge, after which it is no distance to the hut.

We had seen (and heard) a helicopter going backwards and forwards with loads which we realised were bags of coal when we reached the hut, for the warden (on his first day, and just arrived from the U.K.) to shift into the shed. This must be the most expensive heating in N.Z.!

We had noticed a flock of sheep being worked across the river, and soon we heard dogs barking and men whistling and the baa-ing of sheep. It was interesting to watch the men working the dogs, which were helping to get the sheep down a narrow gut to the bridge.

After a cup of tea, our priority is a wash. The river was too far away, but, just below the hut (and out of sight) were shallow, (very), grassy pools left from recent rain. What did it matter that the water was probably polluted by sheep droppings, it was a luxury to lie naked in the warm water.

Also in the hut were two keen fishermen and a DOC girl counting yellowheads (mapua).

A perfect day, we enjoyed our meal outside on the veranda.

The day was overcast, with light rain in the morning. We left at 8.15am and enjoyed the walk to Upper Caples Hut in 2-1/2 hours, in time for morning coffee.

We spent the day cleaning the hut, Loma and Jane lugged bags of coal to the shed, and Ruth explored the river. There were several fishers who had stayed the previous night, but left later. By evening the hut was full, including two mapua counters who described their work of mist netting, shinning up trees etc.

McKellar Pass sounded daunting, but it was no worse than we encounter in our Western Hills, Whangarei, on a day tramp. Certainly the descent was steep, but the top was a bonus --- a board -walk. Oddly enough it was on this boardwalk that Ruth discovered her ankles had ‘packed up’ and were giving her excruciating pain. So we lightened her load and slowly made our way to McKellar hut at 3.30pm. The river was closer for a good wash!

By nightfall the hut was full, including a photographer who specializes in deer, and a family who had no means of heating food! About 10.30pm we were ‘invaded’ by three deerstalkers who slept on the floor.

The photographer and two deerstalkers were off in the dark (we understood that the shooting season had just ended!).

We left at 8am and enjoyed the walk down the valley, over open tussock grassland and through patches of beech forest, and arrived at mid Greenstone Hut at 3.30pm.

We do hope that a well fed ferret which was lurking around the hut is no longer in this world! Greenstone Hut was a delight --- clean, windows sparkling, nails for hanging towel etc by the outside tap --- a woman’s touch. Thank you Lee.

Another sparkling day. We left at 8am and sauntered down the valley. There’s a delightful spot by a large rocky pool in the river. We were sitting among moss-covered boulders having lunch when a guided party came from the other direction. The noise of the river meant they never heard us, and the look of surprise on the young woman guide’s face was amusing to see. ‘I can’t believe it’. (We had met her several times on the Routeburn). This was their snack stop, and an opportunity for one of the young male guides to show off, he dived into the cold clear water and frightened off a large trout we had been watching.

Ruth was suffering agonies and our progress was slow, but it gave us an opportunity to enjoy our surroundings. The car park was a welcome sight at 2.20, and Wattie arrived at 3.30 as arranged.

We’d done it – three tracks in seven days! The Routeburn, Caples and Greenstone. 

Now for the Rees-Dart

                                                                   Sylvia