We six Ladies were booked in at the Glenorchy Hotel Backpackers the nights of 8^th and 9^th November and had a lovely meal each evening at the Glen Roydon Café and Restaurant across the road.

The 9^th was our rest day and with our washing hung to dry, we went to the DOC to ask about the condition of the Rees and Dart tracks. We were told the two bridges were up, but many trees were down over the tracks and were being cleared. We wrote up our intentions and left them at the DOC office, then had a good walk about the township in the afternoon. A final check of our packs was done before bedtime, and our lovely clean boots were waiting at the door. Ruth had scrubbed and polished them for us today. The clock is set for 5.30am

Up at 5.30 am and five of us were waiting for Wattie at 7am outside the backpackers after saying our goodbyes to Ruth, who was going to have physio on her ankles in Queenstown. We will miss her on this tramp. It looked very overcast up in the mountains.

As usual Wattie was in good time, he is so kind and thoughtful. We arrived at Muddy Creek Carpark approx. 7.45am. Wattie walked with us to see us safely over the swiftly flowing river; light drizzle was starting as we waved cheerio to him at 8am. A good pace was set along a 4-wheel drive vehicle track, past a private hut and on up the long valley. A low cloud hung down around the hills, stopping a view of Mt Earnslaw. The drizzle gradually increased as we passed the twenty-five Mile Hut sign, and we soon came to the Twenty-five Mile Creek, which was very swift flowing and starting to rise. After looking for a good place to cross we linked arms and using poles crossed over at the marked spot. Before crossing we saw a memorial plaque to two trampers drowned crossing this very river, which made us extra careful.

The valley became very swampy shortly after crossing the river and travel was becoming slower. Although we tried to keep to the track we found the markers were very few and far apart, so eventually we had to climb to higher ground, which took time but made the going faster.

Lunch was had in a small bush area on the edge of the swamp; we didn’t linger, as we were damp and getting cold. Sylvia saw a young chap pass, walking fast through the swamp.

The valley was closing in and shortly we left the swamp and climbed up on to a terrace, the track leading us through a small bush area to the footbridge over the Rees River. Thankfully we had arrived at the bush and I expected an easy climb to Shelter Rock Hut. We had no idea what was in store for us, we had been told trees were down, oh how sorry I am I didn’t count how many! What a mammoth task to negotiate each tree. They had fallen from above the track and it was the heads we had to crawl under, climb over, straddle, or simply remove our packs and pass to the one in front. Then you slithered through the branches, we could have two or three trees together and when lucky have a chain or maybe two of clear track before starting again. This was energy sapping stuff, and when we came to the track sign saying ½ hour to the hut, we were elated. We came to a very old avalanche sight with three streams to be crossed. Well, the first one was in flood when we arrived at 4pm. Everyone had a good look but couldn’t cross in safety, so had to retrace our steps, over three fallen beech trees, back to a couple of very large rocks over the track, which took 15mins, where we all set to, to make a comfy shelter for the night. This was the first time we have had to bivvy out, so it was a new experience for us all.

At 5pm the rain stopped how grateful we were. The track under the rocks was a small rivulet so a false floor had to be laid, covered by soft dead twigs and ferns.

There was a natural shelf under the rock where we laid our packs, and when the roof was erected, we all changed into dry things, or put on more clothes. Then our evening meal was cooked and hot drinks brewed with water collected from drips off rocks, caught in ice cream containers. Darkness was upon us now so candles were produced and placed about our cosy shelter. We all prepared for a long night huddled together each in our survival sheets, our feet – still in boots – legs and bums tucked in our orange survival bags. My survival sheet had been unopened for 20 years and was a mass of square sections, I think Marjorie’s was almost as bad but we held them together as best we could under a cheap poncho which did the trick. 3am found us all awake, ‘bums numb’ all needing a move, like – the five in the bed and the middle man said, roll over! In the glow of our night candle we ate a few ginger nuts and settled down again. Jane had one lone glow worm to watch, and keep her company.

In the morning about 5.45am, time to rise, and we emptied our orange bags of condensation, quite a pool of liquid. Breakfast eaten, some were all for making the camp more cosy but seeing it hadn’t rained all night I did want to check out the river, so we were over the moon when we arrived and it was down enough for us to cross. Half an hour and we would be at the hut. Well, it was a long ½ hour but seeing we were rather tired from our day before, and a sleepless night for most, we took more like an hour to gain the Shelter Rock Hut. We decided to sleep in the main cabin, and soon had a good fire percolating. The washing lines, and extra ones too, were all full of our wet and damp gear, the rafters were adorned also. We had kept our sleeping bags dry, so Pat and Sylvia climbed into their bags as soon as lunch was eaten, and we three others saw to the fire and turning clothes. The young chap who had passed us the day before was nowhere to be seen.

At about 3.00pm folk started arriving, four couples and a 61/2-month-old baby, Lily. She was perfect; we never heard a murmur out of her then, or the next two nights. She had 5 grannies ready for a cuddle at any time.

Shelter Rock Hut has a new block, which sleeps 8, very flash. Kindling wood is hard to find, but they provide plenty of coal to keep the fire going once lit.

Loma.

We woke to low cloud but clear tops to the south and set off at 7.15am. The track was easy to follow, rising gently at first, along the stream bed much of the time, and we saw lots of black furry caterpillars. Wonder what they will turn in to? It grew gradually colder as we got higher and the wind got up – a few snowflakes but  sunshine. The headwaters of the Rees River were off to the right as we climbed very steeply for the final half-hour to the Saddle, close beneath a cliffy bluff. At one point a Kea right close to the track drank from or browsed on a plant taking little notice of us though eventually flying off unhurriedly. At the Rees Saddle – 1447m – standing on powdery snow in sunshine we felt totally exhilarated – vistas in every direction – down both the Rees and Dart Valleys and a circle of mountaintops. We’d heard that the clamber down to Snowy Creek was difficult to follow and negotiate, falling away steeply in parts and slippery when wet, but we found the route well poled and we took time and care on the rocks and snowgrass. The Upper Snowy Creek Bridge was much appreciated. Thank you DOC who had put it up only a week beforehand. It is always removed in winter because of potential avalanche damage. We certainly couldn’t have safely climbed down to the creek bed and found a safe crossing over the enormous boulders.

The next part of the track, on the true right of Snowy Creek, was a delight. Sheltered sunny weather, a pair of Kea flying across, views across to the mountains towards Aspiring, and the Upper Dart Valley opening up. We sidled along through rock gardens with Mt. Cook lilies galore, though only a few in flower, and moss covered cairns, taking time out for lunch on a sun warmed rock. Way below was the roof of the Dart Hut, and a helicopter came and hovered and went. Later we found it had picked up the DOC warden and workers and taken them for the weekend off. We carried on down, down, crossing several tumbling streams and finally the Lower Snowy Creek swingbridge with a view to the right up the Dart Valley towards the Cascade Saddle. Sadly we have used up our spare day so can’t go there tomorrow. The Dart Hut was spick and span with a separate toilet block with flush toilets and hand basins, would you believe, and we were welcomed by the several couples who had passed us during the day. No sandflies – wonderful - so we sat outside and lazed and even spread-eagled on the hot rocks in the river after a refreshing icy wash. As the sun left the valley we watched as the light hit the mountaintops turning them gradually pink.

Up and away by 7am farewelled by several others. A lovely beech forest track with many tree falls just recently cleared by DOC thank goodness. It was rather rocky underfoot with frequent stream-wading till we reached Cattle Flat, a grassy terraced area about 4km long, sliced by short steep gullies, some with streams in them. Glorious sun and open air and views up and across the Dart River, including a private swingbridge in the distance. Back into the bush and it was quite tiring and slow going with frequent tree falls to clamber up/over/under/round. At one scary point Loma was flattened and we thought she was pinned by her leg – she was, and left some skin behind but at least her bones were intact. Several streams had the potential to be flooded - a salutary thought. Out on to Quinns Flat, a small beautiful oasis, more bush and then Daley's Flat with its welcome hut at the far end. Just the English couple and baby Lily in residence, but much sweeping was required to clean the place up and settle in. Sparkling views of the river and mountains but the sandflies were so voracious that we spent very little time outside.

Away just after 7am through beech forest with all the tree falls cleared – wonderful. Sandy bluff was dramatic as we approached, and it was obvious as we went up and over that much work had been recently done to upgrade the track. A rope, temporarily in place, helped us up one steep section then we followed a newly blasted rocky track hugging the cliff with brilliant views upstream. We passed the point where the commercial kayaks run to/from, and continued across several grassy flats and over forested bluffs with plenty of tree falls to negotiate. Our lunch stop was spoiled by sandflies so very brief and we had to admit that the last hour or two seemed rather a tedious plod. Lovely views though over the river as it became more braided, and some pretty little islands, and sometimes clouds of dust/silt swirling up from the riverbed. What a relief to doff our packs and await the shuttle. Chilly and windy but time passed fast as there were occasional jetboats and kayaks to watch as groups went up and down the river. And what a happy reunion with Ruth -still with sore ankles – and Wattie, our cheerful accommodating shuttle driver.

Marjorie.

Monday was wet with more heavy rain forecast. We were glad we were off the track but concerned some trampers insisted on starting the Routeburn, despite the heavy rain warning. We wonder if they were among the trampers who had to be rescued the next day. We were able to fly from Queenstown to Christchurch, where our flight to Auckland was changed and delayed, but we were unable to contact the folk at home to tell them we would be late. Vic and Margaret were getting quite concerned by the time we turned up. Queenstown had several feet of floodwaters through the shopping centre that week and Glenorchy was flooded as well. We were thankful the weather had been fairly kind to us and enjoyed our time in a beautiful part of this great country.

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