This year’s tramp was around the mountains of the Volcanic Plateau. Seven ladies this time packed up and left the luggage in the cars at the Skotel, and walked down the road to catch the Tongariro Crossing bus outside the Visitors Centre at 8.30am. A surprising number of folk were waiting so they had to get a bigger bus, ski-type, with seats facing inwards.

The weather forecast was not too bad, with winds increasing to 35kms in the evening. However, the bus driver advised that "conditions were adverse"! Not a good omen.

Leaving the bus we edged past the day walkers being given instructions and safety tips at the map board by the driver. With heavy packs progress was slow, and we were passed by lots of young ones. A stop was made at the base of the first large climb while Loma strapped her ankle, then about half way we ran into mist (or cloud), and put on raincoats well below the top. Ruth wisely put on over-trousers. Crossing South Crater the cloud kept coming and going and the wind was increasing all the time. It was cold at the base of the climb up Red Crater, we had planned to have a stop but as the weather was getting worse decided to wait till the other side where it would be more sheltered – just. Pat went on so we had to follow, slowly, slowly, step by step, glad to have sticks otherwise we would have been blown away. We met some Tibetan Monks coming the other way and later found out they had all the top gear, coats, packs, cold weather clothing, and also a follower who did all the work in the huts.

Going down to Emerald Lakes was easier, but there wasn’t much shelter from that b----- wind! We got down at 1pm, the other three joined us ½ hour later. Jane, Loma and Margaret had decided to put on over-trousers etc., difficult enough without wind, but today made 100 times worse, and took longer. Loma had a light three-piece plastic ‘suit’-- cost $7--, just the thing she thought. It ripped to pieces as soon as she started to walk, and the hood took off as Margaret tried to dome it on, but obligingly came back! Goodness knows what foreign tourists thought of this apparition with plastic draped round her gaiters, and one bare arm. To make matters worse, Jane got cramp in both legs and was unable to move for some time, then progress was a few steps at a time. Most of us had done the Crossing several times before and had never had the wind so strong. It is not a place to take lightly and several people have died doing just that.

Leaving the main track about 1.40pm we headed for Oturere and descended steeply down rocky ridges, eventually reaching flatter ground. There were patches of rocks surrounded by sand, ‘a surreal place to visit’ according to the leaflet, and we arrived at the hut at 4pm, 7 ½ hours from the start. Although the weather was not the best the views we had, and the colours were stunning.

The hut was not too busy. Wanting to save candles we retired to bed about 8, when the warden came in, in wet clothes. He had ‘fished’ a tramper from the river. We later heard it was the trampers bad luck, not good luck that the warden saw him. The warder shouted out to him while he was boulder hopping, he lost his footing, hurt himself on rocks and couldn’t get up because of his pack!

Sylvia

In the early hours some rangers arrived at the hut. They were searching for a lost English girl who hadn’t arrived at the Ketetahi car park the evening before.

We felt for the searchers who had spent all night on the mountain and it was a chastening reminder to us to always stay together.

Because of our broken sleep we were all awake early and able to see the wonderful sight of Ngauruhoe looking very beautiful in the pink dawn.

At 7.40 am we leave Oturere. The weather is good but with a cold wind. Intriguing landscape this morning with often pumice and sand underfoot. We walk past craggy rocks and scattered bonsai-like bushes barely holding their own in this harsh landscape. When we hear a helicopter we hope it means the missing tramper has been found.

We meet some Army folk who are resting and yarning in the sunshine. They tell us that at least they’re getting paid while they’re tramping and suffering. They couldn’t imagine why we would do this for fun. Later that day we realise they will suffer some more when they discover they’ve left some of their food at the Waihohonu hut.

We soon reach beech trees and welcome their shade and coolness. We missed detouring to the Waihohonu Springs, probably because we were busy talking about the tramper who had fallen in the river yesterday, and how the crossing had changed from earlier visits.

I always think this a very pretty area with the beech forest bordering the river and many boulders covered in amazingly coloured plant life. All shades of green, bronze, and even red.

For some reason we all find this next part a long hard up hill grunt and we barely stop to catch our breath in case we don’t get started again. The views at the top are lovely and we can see the Tukino Rd, which we will cross tomorrow.

We reach Waihohonu soon after 11am so only a 3 ½ hour tramp today. We all appreciate this ‘easy’ day.

After lunch some of our group visit the historic Old Waihohonu Hut where Marjorie had stayed many years ago, and then they explored around Ohinepango Springs where they were surprised to find one of the young women from the hut plunging into the icy water, with much screaming.

The rest of us had stayed back and enjoyed leisurely washes in the river. I had amused folk by having a couple of hour’s sleep in the main room of this busy hut amidst a lot of noise and laughter.

After dinner it was a game of "Time" and into bed by 8.30. Yes, we all thought today was a holiday.

Ruth

Up at first light and away by 7am. It was drizzling, but after 20 minutes we had coats off at the Ohinepango Springs. We didn’t explore there as some of us had done that the previous afternoon. Along gravel slopes, up and down gullies, with patches of alpine plants making gardens. As we neared the Mangatoetoe Stream the cloud started gradually lifting to show nearly all of Ngauruhoe and Ruapehu. A long steady climb to the Tukino Road with a line of power poles with Jane and Loma doing their good turns for the day by propping up some of the many blown-over marker poles. It was very windy as we sidled along on pumice slopes with many gullies of various depths and sizes. We found shelter behind a boulder for lunch with driving drizzle alternating with sunshine giving us intermittent views. The clumps of vegetation were copper and bronze against the grey loose rock.

At the Whangaehu River a notice said "Don’t loiter in the area because of lahars" A new swing bridge with shoulder-high sides had been put in since 1999, so very new and safe-looking. Even so it was quite scary looking down on the glacial torrent – a smooth swirly grey rocky chasm with milky water. The bridge blew sideways in wind gusts – very obvious while Loma was crossing! Next we clambered up over big rocks to a huge castellated sculptured area, and down to a tributary gully, before going up a very steep rocky track ending in a cliffy scramble – not easy with the very strong wind. Fortunately the wind all day long was coming over our right shoulders, so we didn’t have to head in to it. Quite a relief to have that stretch behind us.

Two guys caught us up and brightly said, "20 minutes to the hut" so we continued doggedly on, up and down across pumice slopes again, with a clear view over the Desert Road towards the Kaimanawas. The hut was such a welcome site and the two ambulance men from Wanganui were good company. We spent a cosy evening with the stove, shoulder rubs and cards. Rather an exposed trip to the toilet up behind the hut – and once there it was totally air-conditioned – no door! (Last seen hurtling into space no doubt!) Memorable highlights: the desolate pumice slopes, enormous gullies, the wind, the alpine gardens dotted in gravel areas.

NB: Our average age this trip is 64 ½ years.

Marjorie

Rangipo is a never to be forgotten hut – perched high in a rockfield just a 100 feet or so below the ridge and facing eastwards to the Kaimanawa Range continually draped with grey clouds, and the plains in the middle distance a misty green.

The toilet is hilarious. A scramble to climb up to it and it is doorless with a large gap around the base. No seat cover and a large rock to hold your toilet paper from the gale that usually blows. However it is quite a long structure so you stay dry and it is clean.

We left at 7am enjoying the desert landscape and we find the vast plains of wind sculptured sands and volcanic rocks fascinating.

We soon reach the huge and awesome Wahianoa Gorge and it is a knee sapping climb down to the bottom, but this time a shorter climb up as the track had changed and we didn’t have to clamber over a rocky outcrop at the top. There were a lot of undulating traverses we found interesting but tiring and were glad to stop at 12midday for lunch at exactly the same spot as last time. Moving on we soon reached the beech forest and the trees and ferns were an amazing contrast to what we had just covered. Here we first saw the bands protecting the perching mistletoe. In and out of bush, sometimes with boardwalks and steps, some of which had been put in by a very long legged person. About 25mins before the hut a very impressive staircase and bridge crossed one of the rivers. A few of the streams had dried up including one close to the hut we were going to wash in. There were great views of Ruapehu from the hut, which we enjoyed while drinking a welcome cup of coffee in the afternoon sun. Tonight we had the hut to ourselves.

Jane

Today was a rest day and we couldn’t have chosen a better one, as the weather was foul. It was nice to lie in our sleeping bags and listen to the wind lashing the rain against the front of the hut. Plenty of wood had been cut the day before so we had no worries there, and there was plenty left dry for trampers the next day. We pampered ourselves with hair washing as the wind had deposited a fair amount of ash in our hair over the last few days. Lunch was hot scones and jam, much to the surprise of the young, wet, cold, TALL American, Steven, who came from the Rangipo hut. I think it was a bit much for him having 7 ‘mothers’ fussing around but he changed his plans and stayed the night. The night before the wind had partially destroyed his tent, so he was glad of the rest. If he had arrived a bit earlier he would have thought us quite mad as some had decided that to pass the time we would have a "Wearable Art" show and dress up in whatever we could find. The prize had to go to Marjorie as ‘Chief Ehuehu’, check the photo!

Good for a laugh and exercised the brain cells. Steven was able to give us news of the tramper who had been lost, we knew she was safe but had heard several stories of where she had been found. She must have completely lost the track as she slept out overnight and in the morning saw headlights, and flagged down a car – on the Desert Rd! I would love to know how she got there, as she would have gone through some very rough ground. As we settled down for the night the weather cleared and the crescent moon shone, hopefully a fine day in the morning.

Margaret

Everyone was up bright and early feeling refreshed after our rest day. We left at 6.50am following very slippery boardwalks, icy where they were in shade. The first three streams were unbridged and the access was tricky each time. At 7.30am we came to a newly bridged stream, 43yds long. The morning was crisp, and down in the valleys the mists lay heavy, giving the appearance of a sea with islands about.

By 8am we had our first break and the view of the mountain was wonderful, it looked like a freshly iced wedding cake.

Boardwalks continued and we still had to watch our steps. At 8.15am a 2^nd stream was bridged, and then we walked into a lovely patch of bush, track good with several patches of boards, and noticed aluminium sleeves on many large trees and the perching mistletoe above – possum love them.

Two more bridges and boardwalks and at 9.30 came to the signpost –Blyth Hut 2 ¼ hrs. Road end 45 min. Morning tea was enjoyed where two streams met, and it was decided then that Pat, whose toe was extremely painful, would go down the mountain with our driver who was bringing our extra food in, and that Ruth would keep her company, which was a very kind gesture. Morning tea over at 9.50am and we continued to the road end passing the Waiotonga Falls, a great sight.

Ruth’s friend Beth arrived at 11am and our packs were replenished, and also our tummies with lovely fresh bananas. By 11.30 am we were dropped off 3km further up the road at the start of the track taking us to Mangaturuturu Hut. Steven arrived in time for the ride too. So glad we didn’t have to walk that road!

There is a large boulder at the start of this track with a memorial plaque to the first aeroplane that went missing in that area, killing all on board, about 50 years before. This boulder seems

to be in danger of slipping down the scree slope.

We said goodbye to our mates and set off dropping steeply over scree and sidling down to a small stream over old slips. By midday we could see forever! Way out towards Lake Surprise, a large lake we would pass tomorrow, and way way down to our hut and the large waterfall we had to negotiate. There were 5 massive waterfalls all around in the high mountains behind us. We were off the waterfall rocks by 1.10pm and after crossing a large river and following a long line of boardwalk arrived at the hut by 1.50pm, approx. 7 hours tramping.

Loma

Left at 7am after seeing the crest of the mountain backgrounded by a pink sky. We had researched the river crossing last evening, but the river level had fallen since then so it wasn’t hard. It was the first of many (9 major ones) – no bridges today, but lots of boardwalk and the 308 steps up from Lake Surprise. At the top of the steps we sang a lusty "Happy Birthday" to Wally. There were lovely reflections in the lake and a hazy sun but then mist came in making the slopes of alpine plants look quite ethereal. Fortunately we could always see at least one pole ahead. On past the waterfall gully where Ruth and Vic had once showered, and many other gullies ’till at the top of a hill at 12 o’clock, Margaret (with the cellphone), got the prearranged call from Ruth, saying that she and Pat would meet us at the next hut after walking down the zigzag from the Bruce Road. Great news!

Rain was threatening so we didn’t loiter over lunch, but carried on, as the mist cleared, sidling round Ruapehu’s skirts – gully, after gully, after gully. Lots of hare droppings, and occasionally brand new poles lay by the track – dropped from a helicopter for later erection we presume. There were glorious views up to many waterfalls and at 1.40pm we came over a brow overlooking the gianormous Whakapapaiti Valley with the zigzag just visible in the distance. It seemed to take forever, with numerous ups and downs and stream crossings, to reach the junction with the Bruce Road track and the welcome sign "Hut ½ hour". Ruth and Pat left occasional messages in the sand, and red wool ties on trees – good fun – and it was just lovely to have them greet us at the hut and to hear all their news. Poor Pat not feeling the best with her very painful infected toe, but she put on a smiley face and dear Ruth had carried all that gear for the both of them. The sun was glorious and the stream inviting enough to sit in and wash (albeit quite quickly)

It was a long day, a tiring last stretch, but a happy ending and a sense of achievement.

Marjorie

We woke to a fine frosty morning, much nicer than the very wet day we had last time. One memory that makes me smile is of Loma’s bare footprint in the frost on the wooden step. We left the hut at 7am and the frost deepened, crunching underfoot on the wooden boardwalks as we walked beside the river to the crossing place. The water seemed too deep here and remembering that this river had taken lives in the past we backtracked up river to find a safer place for our old legs. The sun shone in a blue sky but in the shadows ice lay quite thickly in beautiful patterns on the many puddles beside the track and the mud crunched underfoot. Crossing back over the river we stopped on the bridge, as the view back to the mountain was beautiful. The rest of the way back we were in and out of bush and saw a few orchids in bud. We passed places called Slippery Gully, The Shoot and Tirohanga Pai and wondered at the stories behind their names. Crossing the boardwalk over a large swampy area we again had different views of the mountains and spent some time identifying the buildings on the lower slopes. At 10.30 we were at the turnoff to the Silica Rapids and back to Whakapapa Village by 11am. After meeting up with Pat and Ruth we went for some real food – strange how salad tastes so good – then set off for Tokaanu and a soak in the hot pools, returning home the next day. Another great tramp and no problems except Pat’s painful toe, a memory for her to take to her new home in Australia. Where to next time?

Margaret