We had a busy night last night and were pleased we had caught the 3pm bus as we came off the Kepler Track, as it gave us the chance to wash and clean up, and sort and repack, as on this track we are carrying seven days supplies – for Routeburn, Greenstone and Caples – quite a pack full.!!

5.30 alarm and out on the road for our 7.30 Shuttle. A clear still morning, it has snowed overnight and the backdrop to Lake Te Anau is beautifully frosted. We were delivered to the divide by 9.30 am and in high spirits and lovely weather were at Key Summit in an hour. We left our packs at the turnoff and spent the next 2hrs exploring the Nature Walk and Ridge Walk – longer than planned but the area and views were magnificent. We could see Harris Saddle to the North, and East the Greenstone Valley and Lake Marian; - Emily Peak reigned over all supreme.

Reached Howden Hut at lunchtime just as a brief hailstorm hit so we lunched inside. From here it took us 4 hours to reach Lake McKenzie over a rather worn and rocky track. All the streams and waterfalls were rushing with floodwaters from the heavy downpours of the previous day. The Earland Falls were truly roaring –quite scary to pass.  We donned wet weather gear and the spray was so thick the person ahead simply vanished into it. (There is a lower crossing further down.)

McKenzie Hut by about 5pm and we elected to sleep in the detached bunkroom. Soon had the potbelly roaring and that evening sat around chatting to a group of young German lads we had met previously and who regarded these Galloping Grans with some awe. Sylvia was cajoled into cooking everyone scones.

8am start and the grass outside is white with frost, the lake still and beautiful – green and translucent. The sun not yet up over the range. With Pat in the lead off we set across the grass and the track went straight in to the lake! Pat and I decided sticking to the track was the firmest ground so pushed on as we could clearly see the track and boardwalks. More sensible members of the team tried clump hopping, then went back to find that the ranger had informed other trampers of a flood route further back on the track, but had forgotten to tell us! Still, Pat and I had time to empty our boots and change some clothes while we waited for the others to arrive. Pat had been in water up to her waist and I up to the crotch, - this proved to me that my merino wool tights had been a good buy and I walked them dry in half an hour and was never chilled.

We set off laughing, up the zigzags, stopping often to watch the wonderful light and shadow display as the sun rose and lit the length of Lake McKenzie. From the tops en route to Harris Saddle Shelter we could look down on the Hollyford Valley, the Darren Range and right out to the Tasman Sea at Martins Bay. Lunch at Harris Saddle and more rowdy Kea performed, then Marjorie, Pat and Sylvia went up Conical Hill for marvelous views, and the rest of us spread ourselves on the deck and soaked up the sun. Marjorie brought us back a large snowball and we couldn’t bear to discard it so wrapped it in a plastic bag and suspended it from her pack. We started descending along a rough and rocky path, which skirted above Lake Harris. As we rounded a bluff a sudden gust of wind snatched at my hat, and as I grabbed at it, I looked up to see the same gust had caught Marjorie’s pack and tipped her over the side of the track and she was cast, feet above her head, leaning backwards on her pack at about 120deg above Lake Harris. Pat leapt alongside to support her and Marjorie, insisting she was OK, was holding a tussock grass in one hand and had handed Ruth the other end of her stick with the other. She levered herself up onto the track, luckily escaping with only a scraped knee, - the snowball was then put to good use!

Moments later, a guide from the guided walk came loping around the corner, and hearing of her lucky escape said if she had tumbled down, her pack would have protected her in falling backwards, and upon hitting the water one simply releases the waistband (only) of the pack and it provides flotation to lean back on, – this is a technique they have to practice.

The track from there to Falls Hut was slow work, - rocky and rutted from severe weather and many walkers. The Falls Hut provided a short resting-place, and the Falls were a sight. A nice big hut though we thought the bunkrooms rather small and airless. Left about 5pm for Flats Hut, a winding track over old avalanches and a lot of new bridges. It was a long 10-½ hour day and Pat’s pack was very uncomfortable. Met up again with the German lads who lined us up for photos and could not believe the weight of Loma’s pack. It was great being in a small friendly hut again. Met lovely retired couple, June and Julian from Te Anau.

The German boys came in for another evening of chat around the potbelly and sat and swapped stories and track information and enjoyed hot scones and jam again, -one of the lads noting down Loma’s recipe

8am. Lovely walk downhill through beech beside the Routeburn River. Two hours later and there was Wattie Watson, 45 mins early and we were so grateful as it meant we get an early start on the Caples walk. The weather is still great and we are ready for the next challenge.

Jane.